Welcome back to the 2021 Zero Waste Mini Collection Blog Tour. It is day 2 today with more great makes, pattern hacks and giveaways. Scroll to the bottom of the post for the rest of the awesome lineup.
As I said yesterday though, I can't help but get in on the action and will be dropping in each day of the tour with hacks for the patterns in the collection.
Todays hack is taking yesterdays hack one step further and using the Zero Waste Henley Tee pattern to make a super cute lightweight zip jacket.
This is not quite as simple as yesterdays hack, but by far the simplest jacket/coat I have ever made, and the kids just love them. The pink one is a heavy weight denim, turns out a pink denim jacket is The. Best. Thing. Ever.
So lets get started.
What you will need:
- Fabric - a fairly heavy weight woven like denim, drill, or cotton canvas.
- 3 zips - One separating for the center front (we will work out measurements for this in a moment), and 2 regular dress zips 18cm long.
- The Zero Waste Henley Tee pattern
- Measuring tape, marking tools, thread scissors etc.
Cutting your pieces
- Cut the main bodice piece from the ZW Henley Tee pattern, marking the shoulder darts and neckline but omitting the placket markings.
- Cut a collar piece using yesterday's post for guidelines.
- The only other pieces you will need to cut are sleeves. I used a little trial and error to get the sleeve lengths right on these ones, I have provided some guidelines for length but it might be prudent to cut them slightly longer and then try the jacket on when it is partially constructed and adjust the length from there.
- Take a shoulder to wrist measurement from your intended wearer. Subtract 1 inch from this measurement. this will be your sleeve length measurement.
- Take the existing sleeve pattern pieces and extend the hem so that the piece measures this length. Cut 4 of these(2 mirrored).
- Sew the shoulder darts as per the pattern.
Sew the center front zip
- Apply a 2.5cm (1") wide strip of fusible interfacing to the center front on the wrong side of the fabric.
- Cut down the center front of the jacket along the center of the interfacing.
- To work out what length zip you need, you need the zip teeth to be 3.5cm (1 3/8 ") shorter than the front opening of the jacket. To make a standard sized zip fit, you can either shorten a slightly longer zip, or trim the bottom hem of the jacket slightly to suit a shorter zip.
- With your jacket right side out, align your zip halves as shown (with the teeth starting 1cm (3/8") down from the top cut edge and finishing 2.5cm (1") from the bottom cut edge.
- Use a zipper foot to sew the zip halves to the jacket front.
- Flip your zip halves so the teeth are facing in as shown and topstitch the zip in place.
Sew the collar
- Sew the collar as shown in yesterdays tutorial here.
Sew the sleeves
- Sew the sleeve top seam and attach to the shoulder of the jacket as per the original Zero Waste Henley Tee pattern.
Sew the sleeve zips
- Mark the hem line and center point of the back sleeve at the cuff.
- Mark a point 3.2cm (1 1/4") to each side of the center point and draw a triangle whos sides measure 18cm as shown.
- Open your sleeve zip and align the teeth with the lines as shown.
- Topstitch the zip in place turning under the ends of the zip as shown.
Sew the side seams
- Sew the side seams as per the original Zero Waste Henley Tee pattern.
Sew the hems
- Finish the bottom raw edge of your fabric at the bottom and sleeve hems.
- Turn under 2.5cm (1") and topstitch the hems in place. You will have to start and stop your stitching to avoid stitching over the zippers at the sleeves.
And now you are finished and have yourself a fab looking little jacket.
If you have a go at changing up your ZW Henley Tee, I would love to see, so be sure to grab some pics and hashtag them #threadfaction
And check out the rest of the tour: